Sacai Spring/Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear

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Backstage on Monday morning, Chitose Abe never looked so happy. She was jumping up and down happy. And for good reason, her collection was out of this world.

“I wanted to think beyond the 3-D and incorporate movement,” Abe explained of the giant leap in her technique, which had silhouettes changing shape in motion, thanks to contrasting weights in fabric.

“For example, there’s a tuxedo that when it starts moving, you see the detail of a white dress in the back. It’s almost four-dimensional, because movement equates to time.”

If it all sounds a little space-time-continuum (or indeed, Met Museum Costume Institute “About Time: Fashion and Duration” resonant), there was that element — in the Uma Thurman from “Gattaca” voiceover that opened the show, the NASA-sourced cosmic prints on a few looks, even the orange nylon flight jackets and flight suit reimagined into an airy coat and dress.